Tuesday, March 3, 2015
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Monday, March 2, 2015
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Thursday, January 29, 2015
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Sunday, January 25, 2015
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Monday, January 19, 2015
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Wednesday, January 14, 2015
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Tuesday, January 6, 2015
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Sunday, March 2, 2014
Start to Finish The Endurance Test
Picking the "best" finish for your most recent woodworking triumph may seem like a daunting task, given the confusing array of choices. To make the correct choice, start out by answering three primary questions before you begin:
1. How durable does the finish need to be;
2. What kind of appearance do I want; and
3. Whats the best application for me?
Durability
Durability is the first thing you should determine. Ask yourself, "what must this wood working finish endure." An art turning can get by with nothing more than a coat of oil. A kitchen table or countertop, which needs to endure hot coffeepots, scratches, stains, and even chemicals and strong cleansers, will require something much more durable. Patio and outdoor furniture will need a finish that can stand up to temperature and humidity variances. Salad bowls and cutting boards need a special "salad bowl" finish, which is specifically made for woodworking objects which come into contact with food.
Durability is also affected by how thickly a finish is applied. A very thin finish regardless of the type, will not protect wood working as well as a thicker application of the same finish.
Appearance
Staining, of course, changes the color of the woodwork, but clear finishes will also alter the appearance of the woodworking. Most waterborne lacquers and polyurethanes are completely clear to slightly blue-gray. They will add almost no color to white wood work such as maple, holly, and spruce. Shellac and lacquer will add warmth and color to the woodwork. Oils (including Danish Oil, Tung Oil, and oil-based poyurethanes) generally add the greatest amount of amber tones to wood, especially when several coats are applied.
With figured wood work, such as curly or birds eye maple, you can actually use the finish to intensify the figure, or "pop the grain," even without staining. One of the best "grain poppers" around is boiled linseed oil but shellac, lacquer, and most oil-based varnishes will also do the trick to wood working.
By adding one or two coats of shellac to a piece of figured woodworking, you can achieve a stunning effect called "chatoyance," from the French meaning "like a cats eye." If youve ever seen the semi-precious stone Tiger-Eye, youll notice that as you change your viewing angle, the light and dark bands of color change places; this is chatoyance.
Application
Most finishes can be applied in a variety of ways. Shellac, for instance, can be wiped on, brushed on, or sprayed on to woodworking. The same is true of Danish Oil, varnish, and most waterbornes. Some finishes, however, lend themselves more to one application style or another, and others are formulated for a particular application method.
Waxes and gel finished are specifically designed for wipe-on application to woodwork. Though nearly every varnish or polyurethane can be wiped on instead of brushed on, some are designed for easy wiping and thin application. This will usually be stated on the can.
Certain lacquers and conversion varnishes are designed for spraying and will dry too fast if applied with a brush or rag.
To help you choose the right finish using Dresdners "Appearance, Durability and Application" approach, weve made a comparison guide of all our carefully selected finishing products for wood work. See our Finishing Matrix for a complete chart of products. Michael Dresdner is a nationally known woodworking and finishing expert and author.
This article originally appeared in Woodworkers Journal May/June 2000 issue. For a free trial issue, visit Woodworkers Journal Online.
Friday, February 21, 2014
Sampling The Sector
I gathered from the article that while one sector is functional, a pair of them can be very versatile. One about twice the size of the other. I chose a width for the larger sector and proceeded to rip the width from the narrow stock after marking it out with a marking gauge.
As I worked along I made myself pretty happy, a couple years ago when I started changing my game plan to hand tools theres no way I would have been able to pull off ripping a half inch off a board with a D-7. Now it really didnt seem like a big deal. After sawing I planed the edges first with my #6 for flatness followed by my #3 for smoothness.
Now I had a good ol pair of sticks to make the longer sector.
The shorter sector could be thinner dimensions so I ripped the two sides from one shorter section of stock.
Toplins sector puts the hinges on the endgrain. I know hes probably smarter than me and theres gotta be a reason for it, but I had to go with what felt right to me and that was sinking the screws into side grain. This meant creating a little recess so the hinge will lay flush once installed
Then there comes the knife work breaking the sides into 13 equal sections. I cheated a little and used inch measurements for both sectors, The smaller sector has 13 divisions spaced at an inch and the larger has them at two inches. I measured them out and knifed the lines both on the top, then on the inside of the legs.
A very fine Sharpie pen was put to work darkening all the knife lines.
While I was working away I got to thinking about the layout squares I started building about this time last year and the decorative molding cut outs on the Roubo Square and English Layout Square and how they help make the tool attractive and increase the pleasure I get working with them. I decided to repeat the experience here with these sectors. I cut these ovolo silhouettes on the distal ends of the legs on both pair.
Towards the hinge end of the smaller I rasped out these simple covetto silhouettes.
And the hinge end of the larger sector received this bead detail.
Then came the time to number them one to thirteen. One the smaller I used standard Arabic numerals.
On the larger I decided to change it up and use Roman numerals. No particular reason, a little romance thats all.
