Custom Project

After Last weeks sheet goods cutting video, I had a few people send me their methods for breaking down plywood.

A few people mentioned making one of these long boards with a built-in "fence" to ensure accurate cuts every time. Here is Ted Sobocienskis version.

"I made this system for beaking down sheet good, you just set up on saw horses. The grid system allows you to cross cut or rip cut, and your work will always be supported, also the system breaks down and leans against a wall when not in use. One other feature is you through a sheet of ply on top, and you have a great work surface."

Well, I put the finishing touches on the coffee table yesterday so this project is officially DONE! Overall, this project did not take terribly long, considering I have a day job and all. After I did all the final sanding and everything, I wet sanded with 400 grit paper and some Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO). After I let that dry a bit, I then used Watco Danish Oil, Dark Walnut, and went over the whole piece, again wet sanding it in. I did two coats of that and let it dry for about a week. Then, I applied 3 coats of a satin wipe on polyurethane. After the third coat, I lightly sanded with 400 grit paper and applied two more coats. Lastly, I put a light coat of paste wax on it and buffed it out. Below are a couple pictures.

From Coffee Table

In this first picture you can see the legs from all angles as well as the double beed detail on the top.

From Coffee Table

This pictures shows the crazy grain in the top; this was NO FUN to plane, but I just took my time and made very, very light passes. I really like the look of this particular piece of mahogany. You can also see the scalloped edges in this shot.

Overall, I really enjoyed this project. I tried several new things to test my skills; first time using mahogany, first cabriole leg, first shaped aprons, first scalloped top, first double beed. Even with all of these "new" things, it was one of the easiest projects Ive ever done. I probably did my most thorough job of planning and thinking through each step with a focuse on the next step. I definately increased my abilities and concured the fear of trying new things in woodoworking, as well as better planning. Lots to build off of as a result of this project!

Wow! It has been a LONG time since my last update. I guess Christmas and New Years got in the way there somewhere. I hope everyone had a good Christmas and New Year break as I did.

Here is my latest project. A candy dispenser.
This will hold any candy that will fit in the hole in the wheel.. Gum balls, Jelly beans, M & Ms, Skittles,
whatever you like. I have to warn you though, it requires a canning jar and its lid. Now I have to find another jar, because my daughter tells me she wants one too. (grin)

Well after waiting for what seems like months, sending several emails regarding UK availability and keeping a close eye on the Lost Art Press website & blog and finally monitoring stock levels of it on Axminster Tools, its finally mine - At Last!!!

• 2x Large Old fashioned Carpenters Hand Screws
• Veritas Card Scraper set of 4
• Veritas Gimlet set of 7
• Kirschen Burnisher to sharpen the Cabinet Scrapers
• Crown Adjustable Square
• 12" Center Finding Rule

It kind of does look like that thing on top of a handplane, doesnt it?
Its safe to say that in the six-plus years Ive been roaming the sawdusty halls of Fine Woodworking, I have read and copyedited dozens of articles about handplanes.
But until last week, it never occurred to me to ask this question:
Why the heck is that nifty doohickey that supports the blade assembly on a handplane called a "frog?" If you stare at it long enough, it kind of looks like a frog. Could this be why?
I put it to my esteemed colleagues.
At first, my question was met with deafening silence. This is unusual around here, especially with Matt Kenney in the room.
Then the responses started to trickle in.
"It keeps the blade from hopping around," said Tom McKenna.
The always helpful Ed Pirnik replied: (To be read in a "Cliff Claven" voice) "Well, ya see there, ahh, Liz, back in Roman times, they, ahh, used the oil secreted by the ahhh, acanthus frog to lubricate the simple plane irons they were usin back then. And, err, so  over time, it became, ahh, known as a frog."
"Its because its in the throat of the plane," Matt said.
Obviously, it was time to go outside the office for answers.
"Ill bet [Chris] Gochnour will know. He is a huge Stanley buff," said Asa Christiana. But the Goch said he didnt know.
Matt asked Deneb Puchalski of Lie-Nielsen, who said he thinks it harkens back to the definition of "frog" as a depression imprinted in the upper surface of a brick. "This describes in some ways the function of a frog in a plane," he said. "There may be a connection. Anyway, we call the bedding point for the frog the lily pad, just because."
 "Because it vaguely resembles a crouched frog.....really....Im  not kidding!" said Rollie Johnson. Since this is what I had originally thought, I was going to go with Rollies answer. It made sense, and it made me feel smart. Everybody wins.
But then Mark Schofield chimed in, having consulted Ernie Conover. And here is what Ernie said:
"I had somehow thought  that it was because a Bailey frog looks like a frog. I looked through a lot of books to get a definitive answer. The most exact, and convincing, reason is found in Rodger K. Smiths Patented Transitional & Metallic planes in America 1827 -1927." He sent along a copy of the page.
Im going to paraphrase the book because it does go on. It says the first inventor to use the term "frog" in reference to the handplane was Justus A. Traut, who worked for the Stanley Rule & Level Company in the late 1800s. Apparently Traut and his co-workers started calling the thing a frog because it is just behind the throat—and harkened back to the saying "Ive got a frog in my throat." Stanley didnt start using the term publicly in their documents for many years.
As much as I hate to admit it, that wiseacre Matt Kenney appears to have been right.
Drat.
Now on to my next question: Why do they call it a mill bastard file?




Click Here and Start WoodWorking

Clean lines, aesthetically simple, but visually exciting. That’s an area of artwork that I enjoy viewing. Simple repeated shapes, large scale, and most recently art derived from wood are some of those traits. After watching the movie on him in class, I can put a face on the familiar works I’ve seen.

One piece of his that moves me, not exactly sure why at the moment, is the Untitled piece that consists of 10 boxes that protrude from the walls and stack upwards, evenly spaced, and sitting pretty. What does it mean? Does the number of boxes refer to anything? These are actually questions that come up within myself when I am in the process of building, thinking, and doing.

(http://www.eikongraphia.com/?p=381)

The way Judd breaks up a space and how pieces are arranged in that space is another thing that interests me. Perhaps it’s the way the light shines upon a corner of a piece and how that shadow is cast upon the floor or onto another piece within the space. It could be the relevance a certain piece has in relation to the space that is lies in? Near a door? Window? Wall? Or does it simply look aesthetically pleasing when placed next to something, or next to nothing.

Material choice is also a strong influence on me. Concrete. It’s hard. Cold. But those moments before it solidifies, all it is, is mush. Soft, wet, grainy. Mud between your fingers Nothing like what is and will become within the next few minutes or hours. It then becomes this permanent object that is strong, bold, forever. An object that takes the shape of what it is molded to be. It could be a lump on the ground. The rough sidewalk we stroll upon. But in Judd’s case, as in the structures in Martha, Texas, the rectangular almost table-like structures that stand tall and mighty, look so peaceful and yet give a bold statement. They say I am here. Bold. And I am not alone with my other table-like and almost cube like friends. These structures, isolated from other surrounding buildings, lie in their domain as single pieces, but acting as whole.

http://www.townandcountrytravelmag.com/vacation-ideas/best-vacations/marfa-texas-10-07

Judd’s furniture might just seem like pieces of wood glued together perpendicular to each other. Being as minimal as can be. But there is beauty in that I can see. Almost Piet Mondrian-like. But most of Judd’s work doesn’t rely on such bright use of color, and when it is used, it makes sense.

http://blog.buildllc.com/2007/12/simple-modern-furniture/

Color is another factor of why his art entices me. The shiny chrome up against a flat white wall, or the gray scale against the brown foreground and wispy clouded blue sky. Both of which show his variety. Even if the subject is simple shapes, arranged in ways that give complexity to the entire work.

I think I’m most attracted to his work because of its simplicity. And with its simplicity comes the beauty. Don’t get me wrong as I do also enjoy the madness that is Metropolis II or Beam Drop by Chris Burden.

http://hydeordie.com/search/Chris+Burden/page/2 http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20101126/metropolis-ii-art-toy/

Perhaps its the order that I see in the chaos. Because with order comes a system, and the system is fairly simple. But regardless of chaos or ultra minimalist, I can respect both artists with what they do, and how they do it.

Donald Judd’s work might have a difficult time taking the sculpture name. Albeit the wood he cuts and sands is no different that melting wax and forming clay that other sculptors typically use. Both are manipulating mediums. But its up to the viewers subjectivity to analyze and critique the work that stands or hangs before them.

This is info from an article in the June, 2000 issue of Woodworkers Journal.

Picking the "best" finish for your most recent woodworking triumph may seem like a daunting task, given the confusing array of choices. To make the correct choice, start out by answering three primary questions before you begin:

1. How durable does the finish need to be;
2. What kind of appearance do I want; and
3. Whats the best application for me?

Durability
Durability is the first thing you should determine. Ask yourself, "what must this wood working finish endure." An art turning can get by with nothing more than a coat of oil. A kitchen table or countertop, which needs to endure hot coffeepots, scratches, stains, and even chemicals and strong cleansers, will require something much more durable. Patio and outdoor furniture will need a finish that can stand up to temperature and humidity variances. Salad bowls and cutting boards need a special "salad bowl" finish, which is specifically made for woodworking objects which come into contact with food.

Durability is also affected by how thickly a finish is applied. A very thin finish regardless of the type, will not protect wood working as well as a thicker application of the same finish.

Appearance
Staining, of course, changes the color of the woodwork, but clear finishes will also alter the appearance of the woodworking. Most waterborne lacquers and polyurethanes are completely clear to slightly blue-gray. They will add almost no color to white wood work such as maple, holly, and spruce. Shellac and lacquer will add warmth and color to the woodwork. Oils (including Danish Oil, Tung Oil, and oil-based poyurethanes) generally add the greatest amount of amber tones to wood, especially when several coats are applied.

With figured wood work, such as curly or birds eye maple, you can actually use the finish to intensify the figure, or "pop the grain," even without staining. One of the best "grain poppers" around is boiled linseed oil but shellac, lacquer, and most oil-based varnishes will also do the trick to wood working.

By adding one or two coats of shellac to a piece of figured woodworking, you can achieve a stunning effect called "chatoyance," from the French meaning "like a cats eye." If youve ever seen the semi-precious stone Tiger-Eye, youll notice that as you change your viewing angle, the light and dark bands of color change places; this is chatoyance.

Application
Most finishes can be applied in a variety of ways. Shellac, for instance, can be wiped on, brushed on, or sprayed on to woodworking. The same is true of Danish Oil, varnish, and most waterbornes. Some finishes, however, lend themselves more to one application style or another, and others are formulated for a particular application method.

Waxes and gel finished are specifically designed for wipe-on application to woodwork. Though nearly every varnish or polyurethane can be wiped on instead of brushed on, some are designed for easy wiping and thin application. This will usually be stated on the can.

Certain lacquers and conversion varnishes are designed for spraying and will dry too fast if applied with a brush or rag.

To help you choose the right finish using Dresdners "Appearance, Durability and Application" approach, weve made a comparison guide of all our carefully selected finishing products for wood work. See our Finishing Matrix for a complete chart of products. Michael Dresdner is a nationally known woodworking and finishing expert and author.

This article originally appeared in Woodworkers Journal May/June 2000 issue. For a free trial issue, visit Woodworkers Journal Online.

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wood picture frame plans

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wood picture frame plans


wood picture frame plans

One of my favorite things to do in the summer is get up early in the morning and sit on the porch swing while listening to the sound of the sprinkler hitting the grass.  That combined with the scent of the freshly watered grass wafting through the air is truly magical for me.  It is my favorite part of the day.  Especially when these girls join me....


There really is nothing quite like a relaxing summer morning.

Truth be told, our porch swing was a little on the uncomfortable, ugly side so I wanted to do something to make the swing just as dreamy.  I came across this photo on pinterest and thought disguising the ugly chain with heavy rope was so clever, not to mention fun and whimsical, so thats what I did.


I picked up the rope at our local farm store and had them cut it to the size I wanted.  It cost me about $10 for 25 feet.  I wanted to have plenty to wrap around the chain on the swing.


Isnt it fun!?  Im so happy with it.  Of course, I had to make some new pillows to make it all comfy too.  :)  So, if youre a detail oriented personal like me and dont like the chains on the swing, heres a great way to hide them.

Our front porch, as well as the exterior of our house, has had some changes and updates that I will share soon!

Take care!  Hope youre enjoying your summer!

May we never forget......